Chalk the cue
before you place
it over the table.
If the long cue
is bent hold it
loosely.
The weight will
balance the cue
and it will look
straight as you
sight along it.
Move the rest
into position and
hold it firmly in
place.
Look at the
shadow of the
cue to judge the
distance between
the tip and the
cue-ball.
Do not judge
the distance by
lowering the tip
to the cloth.
It is slower and
less controlled.
Keep your arm
horizontal and
hold the cue at
a 90° angle.
Hold the cue
gently.
Keep the tip
close, and play
softly, the heavy
cue provides the
power.
A short cue
action gives
greater control.
Forget position,
keep it simple !
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Many players fear using the rest, especially the longer ones, yet with a
little knowledge they can be used quite confidently. The main principles
involved apply equally to most rest-play, so this session will concentrate
on the most feared - the long-butt and cue, and finish with some advice
for the spider.
To take things in order, you must first chalk the cue - you can do this
before you take it off the table hooks - please don't chalk the cue over
the table.
Having done this place the cue and rest into position on the table, but at
this stage keep them both well away from the cue-ball. Many of the long
cues become bent or warped and you must ensure that you hold the cue
with the bend facing down. This balances the cue and keeps it looking
straight as you sight along it.
To discover if the cue is bent simply lay the butt of the cue on the palm
of your hand and release it, if it is warped it will roll naturally as the
weight balances the cue.
Having decided on your line of aim, move the head of the rest into
position and lower the handle to the table or cushion. Keep it firmly
in place by pressing down with your normal bridge hand.
You must now judge the distance between the tip of the cue and
the cue-ball. This causes problems for many players - and not only
beginners! yet the method is very simple - you need only to look at
the shadow of the cue on the table. You will see this very clearly
even at a long distance, and will be able to move the tip to within
half-an-inch or so of the cue-ball quite easily.
Please do not lower the tip to the cloth and then push it forward to
the cue-ball - this not only marks the cloth but when you raise the
tip to take aim you will find you pull the cue back again and so are
not much better off than before. Keep the tip off the cloth and look
for the shadow - it is quicker, cleaner, and more controlled.
When playing normally your forearm should form a 90° angle with the
cue and you must keep this relationship when using the rest. The only
difference being that in rest play your forearm should be horizontal to
prevent your cue hand dropping as you push through due to the hinge
effect of your elbow.
Do not grip the cue too tightly and keep your wrist flexible.
Holding the cue in this way with the tip very close to the cue-ball lets
you play the stroke with a fairly short arm movement. The weight of the
cue will provide the power so strike the cue-ball nearer the centre than
you would when playing normally, this will also help you avoid a common
cause of failure - the miscue.
Move the cue back and forth a few times, two or three inches is
enough, and follow through by the same amount. This short movement
keeps the cue under control and helps create the accuracy that leads
to a successful stroke.
Finally, keep your positional play simple, as the more difficult you make
the stroke you'll lower the chance of success.
The Spider rest creates many problems due to the downward striking of
the cue. This magnifies any unintentional side and causes a massé
effect, making true control of the cue-ball far more difficult.
When using the spider it is essential to check that the centre of the cue
is aimed directly below the highest point of the cue-ball. This point will
always be on the centre of the ball vertically, and will ensure that the
stroke is played without sidespin.
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