In order to control the cue-ball a properly shaped tip must be used.
It allows the cue-ball to be struck
far more accurately.
Consider Diagram 1.
The cues on the left have square
flattened tips, while the cues on
the right have tips which have
been shaped into a dome.
Notice how the lefthand cue moves across the ball, but only contacts the centre; and
how the righthand cue is able to strike the cue-ball at any point within the same range.
These striking positions give experienced players far more control, and are used to
great effect in both the 'stun' and long distance power shots.
The cues at the top of the diagram again illustrate why the flattened tip should not be
used. The domed tip of the righthand cue allows more of the surface area to contact
the ball; but as the lefthand cue moves away from the centre, only the edge of the
tip can make contact, making a miss-cue far more likely.
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Although the cue-ball can be struck almost anywhere on
the surface that is facing the player, striking towards the
centre of the ball (in the white area) will always give
greater control.
Moving away from the centre (towards the red area)
increases the amount of spin that can be applied, but
also increases the chance of a miss-cue.
Extreme side-spin can be of occasional use, but should
rarely be used. The difficulty of allowing for spin when
aiming can be a problem even to experienced players.
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The lines emanating from the centre of the cue-ball show where the centre of the tip
should make contact for the following effects:-
Striking anywhere on the vertical line A E will cause the
cue-ball to travel in a straight line directly to the object-ball.
Striking left or right of centre causes the cue-ball to take a
curved path both before and after it contacts the object-ball.
Allowing for this deviation is never easy - so side is more safely used
when potting if the object-ball is close to a pocket; and in safety
play when a less precise direction can be given to the object-ball.
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